CORNWALL & DEVON

Exeter was a Roman city founded in the 1st century A.D. on the banks of the River Exe. Two centuries later it was encircled by a mighty stone wall, traces of which remain today. Conquerors and would-be conquerors, especially Vikings, stormed the fortress in later centuries. None was more notable than William the Conqueror, who brought Exeter to its knees on short notice. Under the Tudors, the city grew and prospered. Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Francis Drake were just two of the striking figures who strolled through Exeter's streets.

Above left: Cannons outside Custom House, believed to be England’s oldest purpose built custom house which remained in continuous use by HM Customs and Excise until 1989. Above right: Martine and Michael at Exeter Quay. Below left: Mol's Coffee House, a famous Exeter landmark.

We took the A30 from Exeter to Newquay and passed alongside Dartmoor and through Bodmin Moor. Then we stopped briefly in the town of Bodmin. Bodmin was once the county town of Cornwall, and has a long history. It originally grew around St Petroc's Monastery in the 6th century. By the time of the Domesday Book it was the only town in Cornwall to have a market. It also has Cornwall's largest parish church. Bodmin was also the centre of Cornish rebellion over the years, particularly with Thomas Flamank's ill fated march to London, protesting against taxation, in 1497.

* In 1497 Michael Joseph and Thomas Flamank led a Cornish march on London to protest against extreme taxation levied by King Henry VII to pay for his war against the Scots. They are joined by Lord Audley en route, but are confronted by 10,000 of Henry’s men under Lord Daubeney. The King's army was well trained, mounted and armed, fighting mostly against untrained countrymen with home-made weapons, bill hooks, and scythes. On 16th June the Cornish force are defeated. The battle did not last long. On the 27th June, Michael Joseph and Thomas Flamank were taken from the Tower of London on a hurdle to Tyburn, where they were hung, drawn and quartered. Lord Audley, because of his noble rank, was beheaded on Tower Hill the following day.

  

For over 400 years Prideaux Place ( below right ) has been the home of the Prideaux-Brune family. This ancient Cornish clan’s origins go back even further - to the 11th century - and the present owner’s youngest son, William, is named after his 26 times great grandfather, William the Conqueror. The house is filled with treasures, including royal and family portraits, fine furniture and the Prideaux Porcelain Collection. The house has something for everyone from ghost stories to England’s oldest cast iron cannon. A house with a living history and a treasure trove of Cornish Life.

  

  

Lands End ( below left ) is the most westerly point of the English mainland and the closest to the North American continent. Looking out to sea from here allows the mind to appreciate the scale of the Atlantic Ocean, seeming to stretch beyond the horizon forever. The granite cliffs, which make up the coastline of West Cornwall, are seen at their best here where the combination of the power of the sea and the strength of the cliffs reduce man to a mere spectator of nature. On a clear day, the Isles of Scilly can be seen lying just on that horizon - a group of small, yet very beautiful, islands of which five are inhabited while the remainder of nearly 100 are given over to sea birds! Closer to shore is the Longships Lighthouse, just over a mile out to sea, while in the distance, about six miles to the south-west, can be seen the Wolf Rock lighthouse.

  

Padstow ( above right ) is situated on the West side of the Camel estuary in North Cornwall. It is an area of outstanding natural beauty with wonderful bays and beautiful golden beaches. The town itself has a colourful and ancient history. Old crooked streets slope down to the harbour where many fine medieval buildings can still be seen. Today Padstow remains a working fishing port.

On our way home we stopped at Launceston. Strategically positioned to guard the main route into Cornwall, the Normans built a castle here ( below left ). It was also the only town in Cornwall to have a town wall. Executions were carried out here until 1821. St Cuthbert Mayne, a priest, was hung drawn and quartered on the castle walls in 1574. Other places of interest include the 16th Century Church of St. Mary Magdalene which has one of the most lavishly carved exteriors of any Church in England, and the Parish Church of St. Thomas which stands close to the ruins of Launceston Priory founded in 1126.

Halfway between Bodmin and Launceston we detoured to see Dozmary Pool ( below right ). It is associated with many legends. It is suspected of being the body of water into which Sir Bedivere threw Excalibur after King Arthur was mortally wounded. The pool is also said to be a haunt of the lady of the lake, guardian of Excalibur.

Our final stop on our way home was Exmouth, a popular resort town, at the mouth of River Exe. Here we took a stroll along the beach before heading back to London.